Roof, Slide and Awning
RV Roof Vent and Skylight Repair Serving Long Beach
About 10 min left
Roof vents, powered fans and skylight domes fail through cracked plastic, dead motors and deteriorated flange sealant. OCRV Center repairs and replaces these units including the substrate underneath, with work running $250 for a simple vent swap to $2,500 for a skylight replacement with surrounding substrate repair.
Roof vents and skylights are the highest failure rate components on any RV roof, and the reason is that they are the only ones made of unprotected plastic sitting in direct sun. In Southern California that plastic reaches temperatures that embrittle it within a few years, and then a single hailstone or a low branch shatters it.
They are also the cheapest thing on the roof to fix and the most expensive thing to ignore, because the opening they sit over goes straight into the coach.
Vent Lids, Powered Fans and Domes
A standard 14 by 14 inch vent lid is the most common failure. It cracks, then it shatters, and frequently the owner discovers it when the coach is already wet inside. Replacement lids are inexpensive and available for most units.
Powered fans from Fan Tastic and MaxxAir add a motor, a thermostat and often a rain sensor, all of which introduce their own failure points. A fan that runs but does not lift the lid usually has a stripped lift arm gear rather than a bad motor.
Skylight Domes Over Showers
Shower skylights are large, they sit over the wettest interior space in the coach, and they are almost always the original part. A crack here leaks directly into a wall cavity that is already dealing with shower humidity.
Replacement domes are available for most standard sizes. On coaches with non standard skylights we fabricate a flange adapter so a standard dome can be fitted rather than telling you the part does not exist.
Flange Sealant and Correct Reseal
The flange is where the vent housing meets the roof membrane, and it is sealed with butyl underneath and lap sealant on top. Both have a service life. The butyl compresses and dries, the lap sealant cracks under ultraviolet exposure, and water enters at the fastener penetrations.
A correct reseal means removing the unit, scraping the old butyl off both surfaces, applying fresh butyl tape, refastening, and then applying self leveling lap sealant over the flange and fasteners. Running a bead of sealant around an installed vent without pulling it is the repair most owners have already attempted, and it buys a season.
Substrate Damage Around the Opening
Every vent opening is cut through the roof substrate, and that cut edge is the most vulnerable point on the entire roof. Once water gets past the flange it goes directly into exposed plywood end grain, which wicks moisture faster than any face surface.
We check substrate condition around every opening we service. It is common to find soft plywood extending six to twelve inches out from a vent that has been leaking slowly, and installing a new vent over rotted substrate gives the fasteners nothing to hold.
Upgrading While the Opening Is Open
If a vent is already coming out, upgrading to a powered fan costs very little additional labor because the opening and the wiring path are the expensive parts of that job.
The same applies to adding a rain sensor lid, or moving from a plain dome to an insulated one, which meaningfully reduces heat gain on a coach parked in Southern California summer sun.
What Is Included
- Unit removed rather than sealed over so the flange can be properly serviced
- Old butyl scraped from both the flange and the roof surface
- Substrate around the opening inspected for moisture and rot
- Rotted substrate replaced before the new unit is set
- Fresh butyl tape under the flange and self leveling lap sealant over it
- Fan motor, lift arm and thermostat function tested where applicable
- Water test on the completed installation
Our Process
- 1
Inspection
Unit condition, flange sealant and surrounding roof area assessed, moisture readings taken at the opening.
- 2
Removal
Fasteners removed and the housing lifted out, with old sealant cleaned from both surfaces.
- 3
Substrate Check
Cut edge of the roof substrate probed for softness and rot, with any damage replaced.
- 4
Preparation
Opening squared and cleaned, fresh butyl tape applied to the flange.
- 5
Installation
New or serviced unit set, fastened to the correct torque so butyl compresses without squeezing out entirely.
- 6
Sealing
Self leveling lap sealant applied over the flange perimeter and every fastener head.
- 7
Function and Water Test
Fan operation confirmed and the installation water tested before release.
Frequently Asked Questions
How do you repair a leaking roof vent on an RV?
By removing the vent, not by sealing around it. The leak is nearly always at the flange, where the old butyl underneath has dried and compressed and the lap sealant on top has cracked. Correct repair means pulling the unit, scraping both surfaces clean, checking the substrate at the cut edge for rot, applying fresh butyl tape, refastening and then applying self leveling lap sealant over the flange and every fastener head.
My roof fan runs but the lid will not open. What is wrong?
Usually a stripped lift arm gear rather than a bad motor, which is good news because the gear is a far cheaper part. On Fan Tastic and MaxxAir units the plastic gearing in the lift mechanism wears out well before the motor does, particularly on units that get cycled frequently. If the motor is audible and the lid is not moving, the gear is the first thing we check.
Can a cracked skylight over my shower be replaced?
Yes, and it should be promptly, because it leaks directly into a wall cavity already dealing with shower humidity. Replacement domes are available for standard sizes. On coaches with non standard skylights we fabricate a flange adapter so a standard dome fits, rather than telling you the part is unavailable. We also check the substrate around the opening, which on a shower skylight is frequently soft.
Should I upgrade to a powered fan while the vent is out?
It is usually worth it, because the opening and the wiring path are the labor intensive parts of that job and both are already handled if the vent is coming out anyway. The incremental cost of upgrading from a plain lid to a powered fan with a rain sensor is small at that point. An insulated dome is also worth considering, since it measurably reduces heat gain on a coach parked in Southern California summer sun.
Roof Vent and Skylight Repair is performed in shop at OCRV Center, 23281 La Palma Ave, Yorba Linda, CA 92887, serving Long Beach, California and the surrounding region. Call (949) 799-3387 to discuss your vehicle.
Get Your Vehicle Looked At Properly
Call the shop, describe what happened, and we will tell you what the realistic scope and timeline look like. All work is performed in shop at our 35,000 square foot facility.